We think we know what's been going on in the south of Italy for some time now. Migrant boats carrying asylum seekers, the rise of the far right etc. As I approached this animated conversation fearing their imminent conflict, my limited Italian made me break into a small smile. Right here next to Catania's Duomo, these two were engaged in some good-natured buyer-seller street theater around the quality of some freshly landed octopus. She bought and they fist bumped their goodbyes (this was Covid times after all)